Legends: Luke Mangan

He may have started his chef apprenticeship in order to skip school, but today Luke Mangan is one of Australia's most celebrated chefs, owning a string of successful restaurants from Singapore to Surfers Paradise. Following the inaugural Sens-Asian food market at his Sydney headquarters, mojo, we chat to Luke about cracking into the industry, fostering future talent and why he's no longer phased by restaurant reviews.

Luke Mangan

Source: Luke Mangan

On the recent Sens-Asian food market at Sydney's mojo by Luke Mangan: We had 1,200 people come through the door, they were queuing up around the corner. It was incredible. I didn’t expect that response, but when you get great young people around you like the guys from N2 Gelato, cake maker Katherine Sabbath and our chef Wayne at mojo, it really comes off. With these events, it’s about building a community and helping others. 

On the course of his career: I never thought I’d be where I am now. I thought there was going to be one restaurant where I’d be behind the stove every day until I was 60. I realised – probably when I was about 35 – that I didn’t want to be that person. I made a decision to get out there and have a go at showcasing beautiful Australian produce and wine around the world.
Sens-Asian
Source: Luke Mangan
Sens-Asian: Luke Mangan with cake maker Katherine Sabbath, street artist Jumbo and staff from Black Star Pastry, N2 Gelato and mojo.

 

On working at Hermann Schneider’s restaurant Two Faces: Finishing my apprenticeship was pretty tough. Hermann Schneider sort of makes Gordon Ramsey look like a puppy dog.

On getting a gig at Michel Roux’s Waterside Inn in London: I knew I needed to go there, so when they said, “No, there’s a two year wait list,” I offered to work a month without pay. Thankfully they liked me and gave me the opportunity. I jumped a big queue of people waiting for a job.

On restaurant guides: I probably cared more about them when I was younger. All chefs have egos – you want to be accepted and respected. I think now for me it’s more about keeping our customers happy, the ones who keep coming back. I never really cooked for the guides; I cook for what I like and what the customers like. Getting recognition and awards are important; however, I don’t pick up guides and read them.

On degustation dining: I did that heaps when I was younger. My first big experience was going to El Bulli for my 30th birthday. I had about 24 courses and got there at 12.30pm and left at 8pm. I can’t say that I want to do those things anymore. I’ve done them and I’ve enjoyed them but now I just like the simpler things.
I don’t want to eat in a three-star restaurant anymore, personally. I don’t want to sit down to a 12-course degustation.
On Australian produce: I think 10 years ago or longer we in the Australian food industry were looking around the world to see what they were doing – truffles from France, salmon from Scotland or whatever. Now the rest of the world’s looking at us. We’ve got amazing Tasmanian salmon and Australian beef – our farmers and producer are just incredible. Every year I’ll do a farm tour or go to a seafood provider. You just learn that there’s so much hard work and energy that goes into it. There’s something about our freshness and innovativeness, not just with food, but with wine as well.

On growing up in a family of seven boys: It was a pretty fast eating frenzy. We were very much a middle-class family, so we’d have lots of food in the middle of the table at dinner. Lots of soups, stews . It was simple, hearty food.

On owning restaurants in Asia: I wanted a restaurant in New York when I was about 30, but as you get older and you keep travelling over there, the jetlag gets worse! We’re much closer to Asia – Tokyo is about eight hours’ away, and Singapore is pretty much the same – and I think the market was still untapped. No one’s really gone out there and shown off Australian food and wine to Asia in the form of multiple restaurants like we’re doing now.

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SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only.
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Published 7 August 2015 2:51pm
Updated 10 August 2015 12:02pm
By Siobhan Hegarty

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