"We've trained 275 young people at Charcoal Lane, and that's a pretty significant number over 10 years," youth mentor Stevie Thorpe said during the Melbourne restaurant's anniversary celebrations.
Charcoal Lane graduates have gone on to work full-time in Australia’s top restaurants, and Stevie says training has helped transform many young lives.
"A lot of students are working for the first time. Many were disengaged, so they’re finding out what it’s like to experience work and earn an income. That’s a really huge step in the right direction," Mr Thorpe added.
For decades, Charcoal Lane has been a meeting place of Aboriginal culture and mainstream culture.
The hatted restaurant stands on the site of a former Aboriginal Health Service in Fitzroy. Stevie's family has a long history with the building.
"I belong to this place, my Nan [helped] set it up as a health service, so it was always within my blood to be here and it was always within my spirit."
Stevie Thorpe has returned to Charcoal Lane as a a youth mentor. Source: SBS
Stevie has recently returned to mentor other young Indigenous workers, drawing on his knowledge as a graduate of the first intake of trainees, in 2009.
“Many of our students are starting to get housing, from being homeless.
"We are seeing some youth who lived in toxic situations, that have been unhealthy with drugs and addictions, and have stepped out of those environments," he said.
Stevie was born in Carlton and, like many Indigenous children his age, he was taken from his family along with his brother and sister to live in group homes.
"And we spent a year in those places," he said.
"It was lonely, it was hard, and there was lots of anger, there was lots of sadness, there was lots of hatred as a young person growing up, feeling abandoned."
"And there was a sense of responsibility that was not supposed to be on the shoulders of a ten year old boy that I was looking after my brother and sister."
"I think the impact of being in the homes was that from there I developed addictions."
"I wasn’t showing up for anything. I wasn’t showing up for myself, the only thing I was showing up for was the drugs."
Stevie Thorpe began working at Charcoal Lane ten years ago. Source: Supplied
"And then I broke that cycle. I came into Charcoal Lane and started on a journey to become a chef. And it was so challenging, [because] my mind was broken, my heart was broken.
[Later] I took the tools from that journey and started to work in family violence, running cultural programs with Aboriginal men, an Aboriginal run men’s service.
In his new role, Stevie is encouraging other young Indigenous trainees, and helping graduates into full-time work elsewhere.
“You finish something, it proves that you can do something to yourself. That’s an important self-esteem booster,” Stevie said.
Since graduating last year, Shania Austin has found work with a local council and a small cafe.
Shania Austin is among more than 250 graduates from Charcoal Lane's accredited training program. Source: SBS
"I was really shy and working with native ingredients got me through, because I kind of had my culture here to back me up.”
"I have a strong connection to Gertrude Street and Fitzroy. And my family was here, so I was proud to be [working] in this building."
The restaurant also provides support across a range of personal issues trainees may experience, with social workers on hand.
Aboriginal Housing Victoria estimates 11,000 Indigenous Victorians seek help from homeless assistance services every year, a rate 10 times higher than the general population.
“Some young people who apply here are coming out of home care and have no connection to culture,” Mission Australia's Troy Crellin said.
“Yet every young person I’ve met is yearning for that knowledge”.
"So the concept really is around supporting our young people to start a process of connecting with elders, connecting with community services, and connecting with each other," Mr Crellin added.
Inspired ingredients
The Mission Australia restaurant's executive chef Greg Hampton is a horticulturalist with a passion for Indigenous foods.
“We push young people to ignite a spark and promote a connection between food and culture," he said.
Executive chef Greg Hampton works with 30 Indigenous trainees each year. Source: SBS
"By doing that, we’re changing young people's lives and putting them on a path they can be proud of, to appreciate their heritage and how good their foods are, and what Aboriginal culture has to offer in the world."
The Duke and Duchess of Sussex are among a growing list of high-profile guests to visit Charcoal Lane.
And since their visit, the restaurant has booked out regularly.
Prince Harry and Meghan visit Charcoal Lane. Source: Mission Australia
Shania Austin feels proud to have showcased bush foods to visitors and particularly international guests.
“I love it because not many people overseas know that we’re [Australia’s] first people, and we’ve been here for thousands of years.”
“They are often shocked to learn we’re the oldest living culture in the world and we have this restaurant here, and when they eat, it’s good”
Emu fan fillet is a popular dish. Source: Supplied
The restaurant is stocked with native ingredients, harvested from across Victoria.
"We source bush foods from small farmers, and many of them family-owned businesses," chef Hampton said.
"We also source ethical foods locally from Wiradjuri tribal council and we hope this is something we can replicate across the country."
